Turning an Axe Handle
by Curtis Turner
Round Rock, TX
Note: Click on any picture to see a larger version.
I happen to like using axes. I know, strange isn't it? Perhaps it is the simplicity of an axe that I find intriguing. Of course, I like the direct connection of hand tool to wood. A quality axe is a thing of simple beauty. I credit Peter Follansbee for igniting my interest in axes. Peter does amazing work with a hatchet. He is also very experienced at turning on a Spring Pole Lathe.
Unfortunately, the axe has long been relegated to the back corner of the storage shed by most modern woodworkers. Many suffer from broken handles, blunt edges or ill fitted handles that would be dangerous to use. These forgotten relics of the past can be efficient and enjoyable to use, if they are tuned up.
So what do the romantic notions of axes and hatches have to do with woodturning? Well, the lathe can be a practical way to make a replacement handle. Of course, you can buy replacement handles like those that are
available at Highland Woodworking
. This Kelly Works double bit axe was re-handled using a handle I purchased from Highland Woodworking.
However, there is satisfaction in creating your own custom handle.
I had a small hatchet that needed a replacement handle. I wanted a handle with an oval shape for this hatchet. The oval pattern results in a more comfortable handle. The technique for creating an oval shape on a lathe is to use a simple off-axis or off centered method. This project will serve as an introduction to off-axis turning. This method could be used to create handles for tack hammers and other striking tools.
I am sure there are other ways to accomplish this task, however this is the method I chose. I started with a blank about 1 ½" square by about 14" in length. Historically, the wood choice has been hickory or ash. These woods are said to be strong yet springy. Obviously, you should choose a dry, strong, straight grained wood without any defects. That means no spalting, voids or wild grain direction. Also the grain orientation is vital. The grain should run very straight and parallel with the edge of the axe. As this provides maximum strength. The wood should be very dry. Wood that has a high moisture content will continue to shrink causing the head to become loose thus dangerous.
The axe or hatchet will be subjected to significant force during use, therefore wood choice is important. I didn't have hickory or ash available so I selected a blank of straight hard maple. I have never used maple for an hatchet handle, so it will be interesting to see how this holds up over time.
It is important to use stock that is very square because your successful layout will be based on the "squareness" of the stock. I carefully marked the center on each end then used dividers to layout two off-set points on the tail stock end of the blank. The marks will be used later as the off center points. They should be equal distance from the center point.
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Note the orientation of the three points relative to the grain direction.
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I mounted the blank on center then turned a portion down to round. I left a section square which will make in fitting the hatchet head easier. I used a large spindle roughing gouge to turn this handle. The mass of the larger gouge was better able to absorb the vibration from off-set turning.
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Next, I retracted the quill and move the drive center point to my first off-set point.
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The head stock end remains in the center hole. It is very important that you double check the tool rest position to ensure clearance. Also, a slower turning speed is advisable. I don't think I turned the off-set portion any faster than 450 rpm.
Ghost
This off center method requires the turner to keep an eye on the ghost image as he turns. You can get a sense of the ghost image in this photo
I shaped the profile by focusing on the outer ghost image of the blank. You should realize that you will be turning air for about half of the revolution. This can create a bumpy ride while turning. So resist the temptation to exert too much force into the spindle as this will exaggerate the vibration. If too much force is applied, the tool will slip into the air space as the tip exits the wood only to be push out by more wood as the piece spins. The key message here is to let the wood come onto the tool.
I find it helpful to stop frequently to check the progress of the handle. I continued to refine the shape of the handle slowly working the length of the handle.
I turned half of the handle slowly shaping the curves into the handle. I then stopped the lathe and moved the live center to the other off axis center point and repeated the process.
Once I was satisfied with the shape, I needed to smooth out tool marks and blend the curves on the handle. This can be accomplished in several ways. I found using sand paper and a spokeshave to be very effective.
I did this with the lathe off! It could be helpful to lock the spindle however, I did not during this operation.
Layout for cutting the tenon
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I removed the handle from the lathe and marked out layout lines for the tenon.
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I then used a backsaw to cut the tenon cheeks and shoulders.
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I was left with excess wood around the tenon that needed to be removed. I remounted the handle in the lathe and locked the spindle. A joinery float was used to remove most of the excess.
Fitting the Axe Head
This is the more tedious part of this project. I wanted to remove just enough material to allow the head to fit snuggly. I used several chisels and rasps to pare away wood to allow a good fit around the axe head.
The last step before wedging the head is to use a method referred to as hanging the axe. This is done by seating the head by hand as firmly as possible. Then hold the handle with the head near the ground and hitting the end of the handle with a mallet until the head is drawn tight onto the handle. This sounds counterintuitive, but it really does work.
Wedging the Head
Note: I had not completed the assembly in time for my article deadline. However, I did call in a designated hitter to bring the project home. This small hewing axe was completed several years ago. The fit and assembly operations are the same for both axes.
Once I am happy with the fit, I cut a saw kerf down the center line of the tenon. Saw the kerf about 2/3 of the way down the tenon. This kerf will receive a wood wedge to lock the head in place. I like to make the wedge of contrasting wood.
I find the contrast to be visually appealing. I use a light spread of wood glue on the wedge and drive into place with a mallet.
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This small hewing axe received an ash handle and a jatoba wedge.
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The objective is to use the wedge to spread the tenon enough to securely hold the axe head. If the fit of the tenon is too loose the wedge may bottom out without properly locking in the head or cause the handle to split.
Final Steps
Once the glue has curried, trim the excess tenon and wedge flush with the axe head. If necessary you can sand the handle to your liking. Although keep in mind, a handle sanded too smooth may be prone to slipping in your hand during use. Boiled linseed oil or tung oil would be a good choice for a finish on the handle.
It always amazes me how most people think of an axe as a crude tool only capable of course work. I must admit I was guilty of the same prejudice. Visitors to my shop now often remark "do you actually use those axes?" The Cub Scout groups always get a kick out of my "pencil sharper". A sharp axe and a little practice will take you back to the simple pleasures of an almost forgotten era.
Curtis was the 2012 President of
Central Texas Woodturners
, a member of the
American Association of Woodturners
, and a member of
Fine Woodworkers of Austin
. Curtis teaches and demonstrates nationally for Lie-Nielsen Toolworks. He also owns a studio where he teaches and works. Curtis lives and works in Central Texas with his wife and four young children. Take a look at his website at
www.curtisturnerstudio.com
.
